Before laying floor tiles on a concrete subfloor, it is imperative that you make sure that the floor is level. Once you have removed any bumps and raises with a cold chisel or an angle grinder and diamond blade, then you must fill in any dips, gouges, and cracks with floor leveling compound. If there are only a few here and there on your floor, then that’s a fairly simple filling job. If your floor however is pitted in numerous locations, then it may be best to do the whole floor with a mix of the appropriate self-leveling floor compound in order to give it a complete overhaul.
As a general rule of filling dips, any gouges that are found to be deeper than an inch or wider than a square inch should be filled and leveled before applying your bed of floor tile mortar. Anything less than these sizes will generally fill naturally when the mortar bed is applied. These can easily be found by sliding a spirit level or any other long flat surface across your floor or simply just with a keen pair of eyes and a good sense of judgment. Before filling with your floor leveling compound, first, brush out any dust that is resting in the dips. The use of a cheap paintbrush is ideal for when dealing with fine dust, but a regular dustpan and brush will do almost the same job. Next, wipe the gouge with a wet cloth to activate the existing cement in the concrete. This aids in giving the leveling compound a solid bond with which to adhere to when applied to ensure a firm fixture of the repair patch. If you are looking for additional info on self leveling floor screed, look into the above site.
Follow the instructions carefully to whichever floor leveling product you are going to use so to get the correct consistency of the mix, then apply to the dip, level with the flat edge of your plain floating trowel or your notched trowel, and then wait at least twelve hours until dry before applying mortar and laying floor tiles. When dealing with narrow cracks in the concrete floor, the same method of leveling should apply, but before doing so you should actually make the crack wider to ensure a positive fill. By taking your cold chisel, hammer, and safety glasses of course, simply chip away at the concrete surrounding the full length of the crack to at least make it a minimum of an inch wide and then follow the same procedure as mentioned above.
With a love for floor tiling and extreme sports, the two don’t necessarily mix but help to add to the outgoing personality and ability to tackle almost any problem. It can also be used as an underlayment for finish flooring, as well as on permanently wet areas and under moisture remediation systems such as a moisture control system. It will produce a flat, smooth, cementitious surface. it is always recommended that exterior wear surfaces be sealed with an appropriate sealer and subsequently maintained to provide the longest service life possible. If a reduced-slip resistant surface is required, it can be obtained by using a concrete dressing and then a broom finish, or by incorporating a grit into the selected sealer.